Circa Late 1990s Audemars Piguet Tourbillon 25643

£0.00
Sold

What We Love

It was at the 1986 Basel Watch Fair that Audemars Piguet unveiled this multi-record-breaking masterpiece: the reference 25643. It was the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon wristwatch, housed the world’s smallest and lightest tourbillon, and was the first wristwatch to display the tourbillon cage on the dial side. It also used an extraordinary hammer-style winding system, more on that below.

Records aside, the design and construction of the 25643 are legendary. The movement and case were conceived almost as one, with the movement jewels visible through the caseback, while the dial has an unmistakable Egyptian influence, conceived by AP’s legendary designer Jacqueline Dimier.

At 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals the blue hammer-shaped winding weight, complete with AP logo. Rather than a conventional oscillating rotor, the watch is wound by moving it gently from left to right, activating the tiny hammer weight within the movement. The crown therefore serves only to set the time, a wonderfully unconventional piece of engineering.

This example is particularly sharp, with strong case definition and crisp, deep engravings throughout. It also retains its original Audemars Piguet strap and AP deployant, a lovely detail to still have with the watch.

Offered as watch only. Interesting note this is No. 380, only 382 ever made including the Platinum variant.

What You Should Know 

This is one of the very few watches we do not offer with a mechanical guarantee. As innovative and beautiful as the 25643 is, the movement is notoriously temperamental and can remain so even following a full service. Having now experienced five examples of the reference over the years, we feel it’s important to be completely transparent about that.

For this reason, the watch is offered strictly ‘as is’, with no guarantee of mechanical operation. At present, the winding mechanism is functioning and the crown turns correctly to set the time. It may sound like a cop-out, but sadly it’s simply the reality of owning one of AP’s most ambitious and experimental creations. 🙏

The dial also shows some age-related wear, most noticeably around the outer edges where the upper layer of the dial finish has begun to peel. Some light scratches to the case.

What We Love

It was at the 1986 Basel Watch Fair that Audemars Piguet unveiled this multi-record-breaking masterpiece: the reference 25643. It was the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon wristwatch, housed the world’s smallest and lightest tourbillon, and was the first wristwatch to display the tourbillon cage on the dial side. It also used an extraordinary hammer-style winding system, more on that below.

Records aside, the design and construction of the 25643 are legendary. The movement and case were conceived almost as one, with the movement jewels visible through the caseback, while the dial has an unmistakable Egyptian influence, conceived by AP’s legendary designer Jacqueline Dimier.

At 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals the blue hammer-shaped winding weight, complete with AP logo. Rather than a conventional oscillating rotor, the watch is wound by moving it gently from left to right, activating the tiny hammer weight within the movement. The crown therefore serves only to set the time, a wonderfully unconventional piece of engineering.

This example is particularly sharp, with strong case definition and crisp, deep engravings throughout. It also retains its original Audemars Piguet strap and AP deployant, a lovely detail to still have with the watch.

Offered as watch only. Interesting note this is No. 380, only 382 ever made including the Platinum variant.

What You Should Know 

This is one of the very few watches we do not offer with a mechanical guarantee. As innovative and beautiful as the 25643 is, the movement is notoriously temperamental and can remain so even following a full service. Having now experienced five examples of the reference over the years, we feel it’s important to be completely transparent about that.

For this reason, the watch is offered strictly ‘as is’, with no guarantee of mechanical operation. At present, the winding mechanism is functioning and the crown turns correctly to set the time. It may sound like a cop-out, but sadly it’s simply the reality of owning one of AP’s most ambitious and experimental creations. 🙏

The dial also shows some age-related wear, most noticeably around the outer edges where the upper layer of the dial finish has begun to peel. Some light scratches to the case.