1990's Breguet Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater 3430 No. 139

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What We Love

Peak neo-vintage Breguet. The ref. 3430 is the original execution of Daniel Roth's perpetual calendar minute repeater, combining two of watchmaking's most celebrated complications in a remarkably wearable package. Introduced during the Roth era, it represents the period when Breguet was re-establishing itself as one of the most technically ambitious names in Swiss watchmaking, with many enthusiasts viewing these references as some of the finest modern Breguets ever produced.

This particular example forms part of a Souscription set, originally delivered alongside a matching numbered Breguet pocket watch, both carrying the number 139. Around 300 Souscription sets are thought to have been planned, although the exact number ultimately completed remains unknown. As with many of these sets, the wristwatch and pocket watch have since gone their separate ways, making surviving examples all the more interesting.

The dial is undoubtedly one of the highlights. True to Breguet tradition, it features a hand engine-turned solid gold dial with beautifully executed guilloché, crisp typography and perfectly balanced displays despite the sheer complexity of the watch. It's a dial you can spend hours looking at and still notice new details. The case has been preserved wonderfully too, with deep engravings to the case back, crisp hallmarks and unusually sharp lugs, something that's becoming increasingly difficult to find on Roth-era Breguets.

Turning the watch over reveals the twin gongs of the minute repeater, visible beneath the sapphire case back. The movement combines a Lemania-based repeater calibre with a perpetual calendar module, a construction used across several of the era's most complicated Breguets. Finishing is exactly what you'd hope for from this period, with beautifully executed hand decoration throughout. The slightly thicker case gives an even more satisfying view of Breguet's signature coin-edge caseband, which remains in exceptional condition. Completing the package is the original Breguet pin buckle, a significant bonus given how rarely these appear separately today.

One of the defining complicated references of the Daniel Roth era, the 3430 perfectly captures everything that makes these watches so collectible: exceptional finishing, genuine technical significance and understated elegance. Opportunities to acquire well-preserved examples are increasingly few and far between, making this a very special watch to offer.

What You Should Know

The case measures a perfectly proportioned 37mm with an 18mm lug width, making it wear surprisingly compact and comfortable on the wrist. The watch is offered with its original Breguet pin buckle only. Honest signs of wear are present throughout in the form of light hairline scratches from use, but nothing of note beyond that. A new strap of the buyer's choice from Handdn.com will be supplied with the sale.

What We Love

Peak neo-vintage Breguet. The ref. 3430 is the original execution of Daniel Roth's perpetual calendar minute repeater, combining two of watchmaking's most celebrated complications in a remarkably wearable package. Introduced during the Roth era, it represents the period when Breguet was re-establishing itself as one of the most technically ambitious names in Swiss watchmaking, with many enthusiasts viewing these references as some of the finest modern Breguets ever produced.

This particular example forms part of a Souscription set, originally delivered alongside a matching numbered Breguet pocket watch, both carrying the number 139. Around 300 Souscription sets are thought to have been planned, although the exact number ultimately completed remains unknown. As with many of these sets, the wristwatch and pocket watch have since gone their separate ways, making surviving examples all the more interesting.

The dial is undoubtedly one of the highlights. True to Breguet tradition, it features a hand engine-turned solid gold dial with beautifully executed guilloché, crisp typography and perfectly balanced displays despite the sheer complexity of the watch. It's a dial you can spend hours looking at and still notice new details. The case has been preserved wonderfully too, with deep engravings to the case back, crisp hallmarks and unusually sharp lugs, something that's becoming increasingly difficult to find on Roth-era Breguets.

Turning the watch over reveals the twin gongs of the minute repeater, visible beneath the sapphire case back. The movement combines a Lemania-based repeater calibre with a perpetual calendar module, a construction used across several of the era's most complicated Breguets. Finishing is exactly what you'd hope for from this period, with beautifully executed hand decoration throughout. The slightly thicker case gives an even more satisfying view of Breguet's signature coin-edge caseband, which remains in exceptional condition. Completing the package is the original Breguet pin buckle, a significant bonus given how rarely these appear separately today.

One of the defining complicated references of the Daniel Roth era, the 3430 perfectly captures everything that makes these watches so collectible: exceptional finishing, genuine technical significance and understated elegance. Opportunities to acquire well-preserved examples are increasingly few and far between, making this a very special watch to offer.

What You Should Know

The case measures a perfectly proportioned 37mm with an 18mm lug width, making it wear surprisingly compact and comfortable on the wrist. The watch is offered with its original Breguet pin buckle only. Honest signs of wear are present throughout in the form of light hairline scratches from use, but nothing of note beyond that. A new strap of the buyer's choice from Handdn.com will be supplied with the sale.

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