Reference Talk — How to Identify Royal Oak Ref. 4100, 14332, 14486, 14700 & 14790
Credit: @watchdilettante, Sotheby’s, @nobeerfortherabbit, @rolextouch, @flywrist
With the dramatic rise in popularity of the mid-size Royal Oak over the past 2 years I wanted to share a high level visual checklist, that I use myself, to help identify the different models.
Naturally with 5+ models, seemingly similar in appearance, produced over a close period of time, it is not uncommon to see models unintentionally misrepresented. Hopefully this article will empower you to feel confident identifying and purchasing your mid-sized Royal Oak going forward.
As mentioned this is a visual checklist, specifically focussed on ST, BA & SA variations, if you wish to learn more about the history of the Royal Oak with an extensive review of all models (not just those listed in the title) please take the time to read the wonderful article put together by Clément at 41 Watch, article can be found here.
What will be covered…
This article covers the 5 most commonly confused references with information true to Steel (ST), Yellow Gold (BA) and Steel & Gold (SA) examples.
Ref. 4100(14100) — Introduced in 1978
Ref. 14332 (4332) — Introduced in 1980
Ref. 14486 — Introduced in 1988
Ref. 14700 — Introduced late 80’s
Ref. 14790 — Introduced in early 1990’s circa 1992
Which dial on what model?
Starting with the ref. 4100, the dial originally placed on this watch is signed ‘Swiss’ only at 6 o’clock. Later service dials commonly seen on this model read ‘Swiss Made’.
The ref. 14332 showcased a similar if not identical dial however it was signed ‘Swiss Made’. Both of these models exhibit the old AP ‘straight font’ logo.
Ref. 4100 — Dial signed ‘Swiss’ only, Credit: @watchdilettante
Ref. 14332 — Dial signed ‘Swiss Made’, Credit: Nobeluhrenstore.de
The ref. 14486 dial is distinguished by the inset date window, there is a large gap between the window and dial edge. This is due to the use of a different movement.
For the ref. 14700 the AP logo at 12 'can be found enlarged on some examples with ‘Automatic’ appearing in small font. The dial itself appears larger with increased spacing from the dial edge to the hour indices due to the thinner bezel (covered later). Again both of these models exhibit the old AP ‘straight font’ logo.
Ref. 14486 — Inset date window, Credit: @haute_horobinery
Ref. 14700 — Large AP logo + small ‘Automatic’ font, Credit: @watch_raconteur
For the ref. 14790 it housed 3 dial variations, Mk1 with the old AP logo with the ‘straight font’ (rare examples), MK2 with the capitalized ‘A’ and ‘P’ logo and finally MK 3 with the short hour marker indices. Find the full breakdown of the ref. 14790 in a previous article here.
Ref. 14790 — MK1 old ‘straight font’ logo, Credit: Sotheby’s
Ref. 14790 — MK2 capitalized ‘A’ and ‘P’ logo, Credit: @WatchBrothersLondon
Ref. 14790 — MK3 short indices, Credit: Unknown, please get in touch
Bezels
There are 2 bezels that help identify the watch almost immediately, these bezels can be found on the ref. 14486 and the ref. 14700.
Ref. 14486 features a thick bezel, easily seen when compared to any other mid sized royal oak, the screws also sit close to the outer edge. Equally the ref. 14700 is just as distinctive with its thin bezel, making the dial appear much larger.
Ref. 14486 — Thick bezel, Credit: nobeerfortherabbit
Ref. 14700 — Thin Bezel, Credit: akajouwatch
For the other references they all feature very similar bezel proportions and screw placements making it difficult, but not impossible, to identify just from the bezel component alone. See ref. 4100 & 14790 below.
Ref. 4100 — ‘Swiss’ only signed, Credit: watchdilettante
Ref. 14790, Credit @theflywrist
The Crown
The crown alone can only identify one model and that is the ref. 4100. The ref. 4100 does not feature a screw-down crown like the other references. Ref. 4100 may also be visually identified as the crown appears much smaller when compared to the ref. 14332. Worth noting however the ref. 14886 also features a small crown that is screw-down.
All models originally featured an unsigned crown apart from the very late MK2 (circa very late1990’s) and all MK3 ref. 14790’s.
The ref. 4100 and ref. 14332 are in my opinion the most commonly mistaken models, the crown along with the case construction (coming up next) are the two best identifiers.
Ref. 4100 — Small non screw-down crown, Credit: watchdilettante
Ref. 14332 — ‘Chunky’ screw-down crown, Credit: Nobeluhrenstore.de
Unsigned crown, ref. 14700 Credit: A Collected Man
Case Construction
Case construction as mentioned above is one of the best way to identify ref. 4100. Ref. 4100 is the only model in this lineup to feature a removable case-back, making it a 3 part construction (case-back, mid-case and bezel). The bezel screws go all the way through each part connecting them all together.
Ref. 4100 removable case-back, Credit: Alma Watches
Ref. 4100 removable case-back, Credit: Alma Watches
Ref. 4100 — 3 part case construction, diagram
Ref. 14332, 14886, 14700 & 14790 all feature a 2 part case construction, case and bezel only. The case screws again go all the way through, this time just holding the two parts in place. See below how the case-back is part of the mid-case.
Ref. 14486 — Solid mid-case and case-back with movement removed, Credit: Iconeek
Ref. 14486 — Solid mid-case and case-back, Credit: Iconeek
Case-back
The case-back across all models feature the Case no. beneath the large Royal Oak branding. The ‘Series’ can be found inconsistently on the case-back from C series onwards. Ref. 14790 always has the Series present (D-F Series).
Ref. 14700 Credit: A Collected Man
Ref. 14790 Credit: A Collected Man
Clasp Types
There have been a number of clasp used throughout these models. The original clasp fitted to the ref. 4100, 14332 and 14486 was the folding sheet clasp seen below. The claps features a simple single fold with a flip lock. It is not uncommon for these to have been replaced for a later version during service.
Credit: Chrono24
Credit: Lunaroyster
The beginning of the 1990’s saw the appearance of the single fold deployant clasp featured on the ref. 14700 and 14790 MK1 & 2. The later AP logo clasp appeared on late MK2 and all MK3 ref. 14790’s. The AP logo clasp can often be found as a service replacement.
Signed ref. 14700 Credit: 41Watch
Ref. 14790 MK1 clasp, Credit: orangedial - WatchProSite
Ref. 14790 MK3 ‘AP’ Clasp, Crown Credit: Unknown please get in touch
Movement
Find below the original Calibers found in each reference.
4100 — Originally powered by an automatic 2123 caliber derived from 888 caliber by Jaeger-Lecoultre.
14332 — Originally powered by an automatic 2124/2125 caliber.
14486 — Originally powered by an automatic 2131 caliber.
14700 — The first series of the model bear a 2125 caliber, to be replaced by a 2225 version, derived from Jaeger Lecoultre 889-2.
14790 — The first series were equipped with 2125 caliber and then replaced by caliber 2225.
** Original caliber information gathered from the fantastic article over at 41Watch.
The Calibers stated above however may not reflect what is found in the models today as Audemars Piguet Official Service Centers have been known to enforce movement upgrades for routine services. For example, it is not out of the ordinary to find later automatic 2225 caliber in a ref. 4100 if it has been through an official service. Example ref. 4100’s with updated movements below.
Ref. 4100, 2125 Caliber. Credit: Alma Watches
Ref. 4100, 2225 Caliber. Credit: Iconeek
All references feature the quick-set date functionality except for the Ref. 14486 which houses the automatic Frédéric Piguet 9.10 (renamed caliber 2131). The size of the Frédéric Piguet 9.10 caliber differs compared to the others, hence why the date window sits further into the dial than the other references.
Ref. 14486 with an automatic 2131 caliber. Credit: Iconeek
