Reference Talk — 80’s Ebel ‘El Primero’ Chronograph
Ebel Beginnings
Founded in 1911 in La Chaux-De-Fonds, Switzerland, by Eugène Blum and his wife, Alice Lévy. The name EBEL is actually an acronym of the initials: Eugène Blum Et Lévy. Ebel gained early popularity early on as an excellent watchmaker across both functional and jewellery based pieces, even producing watches for the British Air Force in WWII.
‘The secret of EBEL’s success was that it managed to avoid extremes and not to become a purely jewelry or designer brand, but to always maintain a reputation as an excellent watchmaker.’ - Times Ticking
Adaption & Inovation
During the Quartz Crisis Blum's grandson Pierre-Alain took the reins and leaned into the quartz era while at the same continuing to pursue his passion of mechanical watchmaking. This two pronged approach provided great success and they were even providing wristwatches to the likes of Cartier in the 1970’s. Ebel as a company were thriving.
Success continued with ‘the unveiling of the Ebel Sport Classic range in 1977… ‘featuring the 'wave' bracelet which brought the brand critical acclaim and more importantly, substantial worldwide success.’ - The Watch Press
With great momentum in the company Blum was able to focus back to Ebels foundation, excellent mechanical watchmaking and took aim at producing a top of the line chronograph.
Pierre-Alain Blum
The Zenith Connection
‘Although the fate of mass-market mechanical watches was sealed (quartz crisis), a few visionaries saw a path forward for high-end and complex mechanical pieces. Ebel had emerged as a “must-have” brand by 1980, and wanted a range-topping mechanical chronograph in their collection. They turned to Zenith, since their El Primero was easily the most advanced chronograph movement made in the previous decade.’ — Grail-Watch
Charles Vermot, Zenith Le Locole
Back in 1978 the Swiss arm of Zenith were instructed to cease mechanical watchmaking (Complete fall and rise of Zenith can be found here). Charles Vermot (pictured above),
‘Defying his superiors, Charles Vermot took it upon himself to protect the El Primero for future generations, in the hope that one day Zenith would bring the exceptional movement back into production. In total secrecy, Charles Vermot gathered all the technical plans and tools necessary to produce each and every component
of the El Primero movement and hid them in a walled-off section of the ZENITH manufacture’s attic, known as a grenier in French.’ - Zenith Watches
Thank goodness he did as in 1981 Ebel decided to purchase unassembled Calibre 3019PHC movements for their chronograph, subsequently released in 1982. The El Primero chronograph exploded in popularity and became the must have watch of the 80’s.
In the late 80s, Ebel was, in Switzerland, the epitomy of cool… Even Don Johnson was wearing an Ebel Chronograph in Miami Vice.
— Max Büsser for A Blog to Watch
Sonny Crockett with his Ebel, Revolution
What happened next?
With the increase in demand for the El Priermo production officially restarted in 1985. Having seen the great success of Ebel and with the desire to move to an automatic chronograph, Rolex entered the party. Although Ebel ultimately resurrected the El Primero through the success of their chronograph, the credit is more often than not given to Rolex.
By the late 80’s both Ebel and Rolex were powered by the El Primero ebache. With the volume of movement components being ordered by Rolex, Ebel began to develop their own Chronograph, Le Modulor (this requires reference guide on its own).
As for the company in 1995, Pierre-Alain Blum left the business and sold the family company to Investcorp. The company was sold twice more, in 1999 and 2003 with Movado Group more recently starting to bring back some of the core roots of Ebel.
Deep-dive on the Ebel ‘El Primero’ Chronograph
Understanding Reference Numbers pt.1
The El Primero can be distinguished via the 7 digit reference number, this number is the second line of text on the case back… X XXX XXX
[ X = Metal ] [ XXX = Movement ] [ XXX = Case type ]
X Metal
8 = yellow gold
5 = rose gold
3 = white gold
4 = platinum (request only)
9 = steel
1 = steel and gold
XXX Movement
134 = El Primero (134 Ebel cal.)
137 = Lemania
XXX Case
901 = (38mm) El Primero case
240 = (40mm) Le Modulor case
241 =(40mm) Le Modulor case
Real example
Note ‘8’ at the start of case number for YG, Christie’s
On the case back there are multiple lines of information, the top line is the individual serial number, the second line is the reference number.
Above reference number is 8134901 identifying the watch as a ‘Yellow gold’ ‘El Primero’ ‘38mm case’
8 = yellow gold
134 = El Primero
901 = 38mm ‘El Primero case’
Reference Numbers pt.2
The reference number shown on the case is actually a shortened version. There are another 4 digits that appear after this initial set that identify the bracelet/strap and dial of the watch.
Using the same example above, a yellow gold El Pimero Chronograph ref. 8134901 has an additional 4 digits at the end. Typically this number is only shown in the brochures however it can appear on the card (although fairly uncommon - see pic). A full reference/style number would look like this…
[ X Metal ] [ XXX Movement ] [ XXX Case ] / [ XX Strap/bracelet ] [ XX Dial ]
Reference/style number showing complete 11 digit number
Example card above shows a yellow gold El Primero with ‘40’ bracelet/strap code and ‘01’ dial code.
Strap & Bracelet Codes
Non-exhaustive list… (more to find). Numbers do not depict metal, just the style.
20 = Wave bracelet clip clasp? (flat profile)
25 = Wave bracelet hidden clasp? (flat profile)
30 = Leather strap with pin buckle
35 = Leather strap with deployant
40 = Wave (rounded profile)
60 = 1911 (later) bracelet
61 = Diamond edged 1911 bracelet
Dial Codes
Non-exhaustive list eg. shows the core dial colours. It is important to note that the numerals/sub dials etc vary in color depending on case metal eg. black dial in steel case will have white metal numerals/ sub dials vs gold variants on a black dial in a yellow gold case.
All of these variants have their own unique code however the foundation colours are white, ivory, black and blue.
01 = White, yellow details, black roman
02 = White, white details, white roman
12 = Ivory, gold details, gold roman
42 = Blue roman with yellow details
52 = Black, yellow details
61 = White, white details , black roman
Early production
1982 to 1985 — NOS Zenith caliber 3019 and wave bracelets
The first batch of the Ebel chronographs carried the El Primero caliber 3019, as mentioned previously these were ‘new old stock’ movements/parts, stored for a number of years by Charles Vermot before being purchased by Ebel for the launch of their chronograph in 1982.
Key characteristics of the early models include MK1 dials, non lume hands, wave bracelets and of course the caliber 3019 which Ebel named the ‘134’.
These early models are extremely hard to come by and have been seen in case numbers up to circa 200. have one higher? let me know!
Image: Europa Star 136, 1982, Credit Grail Watch
El Primero 3019, FHH Jounal
NOS Zenith Caliber 3019
Launched in 1969 Zenith introduced the first fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement. Codenamed 3019 PHC, this movement was renamed “El Primero”, which means “the first” in Spanish. - Time and Watches
The 134 was a Zenith 3019PHC in the first three years when they were working from old stock. Ebel leveraged this movement in their initial batch of Chronographs from 1982 - 1985.
MK1 Dials
The first batch of dials show a number of consistent characteristics across the different colours/metals. The sub-dials are thick (compared to later MK2 dial) and the signature at 6 o’clock is ‘SWISS MADE’ only. The ‘EBEL’ logo is also relatively thin, you’ll see later in the article how the last batch of dials had a much thicker logo.
Watch Brothers London
Mk1 Dial Examples
As mentioned earlier the dials came in a variety of colours and combinations dependant on case metal, all carrying a different dial code. MK1 dials are particularly hard to find in black and I’m yet to find one in blue.
See below the thick sub dials and SWISS ONLY signed dials that identify a MK1.
White ‘01’ dial code, WBLDN
White ‘02’ dial code, Burstow & Hewett
Cream ‘12’ dial code, Yonedaya
Black ‘52’ dial code, berlin-watches
MK1 ‘Non lume’ hands
Watch Brothers London
Found without tritium in the hour and minute hands (solid hands), the early handsets are rather striking especially in black against white dials.
These hands often fall foul of servicing, as with many other brands. It is not uncommon to find the original hands replaced with later service tritium or
luminova hands making the solid variants rather desirable and hard to come by.
Depending on the dial color, the hands will vary eg. white dial with black numerals will have black hands, white dial with gold numerals will have gold hands.
Short Serial Numbers
The first line of text on the case back is the unique serial number. The first examples ft. the cal. 3019 are thought to be in the mere low hundreds, 3 digits or less. Cal. 3019 to my knowledge has only been found in steel and two tone examples so far, suggesting they were produced and numbered first, with gold production following a little later a numbered separately.
Presumably there is a no. 1 out there… if you have it let me know!
Serial No. 188, Watch Brothers London
Serial No. 188, Watch Brothers London
Bracelet & Strap Options
Early Chrono with ‘wave bracelet’, Eppli Auktionshaus
Early ‘Wave Bracelet’
Most commonly seen and associated with steel and bi-metal examples. The design is iconic in its own right, extremely comfortable and fully adjustable via removable links both sides.
These early steel clasps (the bi-metal watches featured gold plating) had clip lock clasps (see below) and were flat in profile.
AGFIXINGTIME
AGFIXINGTIME
A rarely seen variant is the gold wave bracelet. The early yellow gold Ebel chronographs were most commonly seen on a strap.
The bracelet code for the rare gold wave below is ‘40’ and has a hidden clasp, also features a more rounded profile on the wave links.
Above: 1984 Catalogue example below showing an early gold Ebel El Primero with a hidden clasp solid gold bracelet.
Below: In the metal example showing the bracelet on an early serial no. 188 Ebel chronograph.
Hidden clasp wave bracelet with rounded wave profile
Although not seen in catalogues there have been images of a yellow gold wave bracelet with clip lock clasp, in theory created before the hidden variant.
A platinum wave bracelet was also seen in one of the earliest advertisements for the watch. Clasp style unknown.
Leather Straps
Straps were available in a number of leathers, interestingly shark skin featured heavily in a variety of colours. As mentioned in the reference number breakdown at the beginning the leather straps could be fitted with either a pin buckle (30 code) or a deployant (35 code).
The straps were secured by 2 screws into the case via a metal mount fitted into the straps.
Shark skin strap, Zeitauktion
Strap secured via 2x screws, Zeitauktion
‘35’ code for deployant, Zeitauktion
‘30’ code for pin buckle, Yonedaya
Crown Types
It is often thought that the hexagonal crown came first however both have been spotted on early examples in catalogs and in person. Both appear to be correct and likely down to supplier/ available stock at the time.
Transitional Year
1985/6 — New caliber and the introduction of 1911 collection
After the initial success it was clear the El Primero needed to return. In 1885 the Zenith caliber 40.0 was created with huge thanks to the forward thinking and belief of Charles Vermot.
The 40.0 was somewhat of a prototype and only produced for 1 year however has appeared in watches a number of past this date.
The 1911 collection was formally launched, a celebration of the year Ebel was founded and featured the chronograph as one of the key models.
Mk1 dial and handset is still present on models with the transitional cal. 40.0.
New Bracelet & Modified Case
1911 collection introduced the bracelet type most commonly seen on the Ebel Chronographs (long production run). The construction lends itself towards a comfortable fit even if changing a link is like a jigsaw puzzle.
These bracelets were available alongside the wave bracelets and straps, available in a variety of metals, however there was a modification of the case to cater for the centre links on the new bracelet. Looking closely at the case connection area there is a small cutout to allow correct installation, although a minor tweak a 1911 bracelet will not fit correctly onto a straight end case (pics below).
Straight end case vs notch case
The 1911 bracelet was available across all metals and has been seen with and without the clasp ‘lock’ feature. As one would expect, gold bracelet for gold cases, steel bracelet for steel case etc.
Clasp lock bracelet, Zeitauktion
Later Production
1987 to 1996 — Final caliber 400 & visual updates
The final chapter of the Ebel El Primero comes in the form of final caliber upgrade and some progressive visual updates.
The 40.0 was updated to the 400 as mass production began (supplying both Ebel and Rolex), with the key visual changes being a dial update with thin sub dials, signage alongside ‘SWISS MADE’ at 6 o’clock and the introduction of luminous material in the handset.
Serial Number Evolution
As production continued the serial number format evolved from 4 digits to 8 digits. The new 4 digits added to the front of the individual watch serial represents the model (eg. chronograph or Perpetual chronograph) and the case material.
First 2 digits = Model (all chronographs no. 64)
Second 2 digits = Case material (10 = yellow gold, 20 = rose gold, 30 = white gold, 50 = steel, 60 = steel and gold, 70 = platinum
Last 4 digits = Continue to represent individual serial number
Later 8 digit serial, ‘64’ = El Primero Chronograph, ‘10’ = yellow gold
vs the early 4 digit serial, Eppli Auktionshaus
The last four digits continue to represent the exact serial of the watch. With only 4 digits allocated for the serial number we might assume that the total number of Ebel chronographs does not exceed 9,999 examples.
Mk 2 dial & handset
Late 80’s saw the arrival of luminous handsets, closely followed by MK2 dials.
To note this was not a linear transition and it’s not uncommon to see a combination of the two throughout the late 80’s/early 90’s even in catalogs.
MK2 dial and handset, Zeitauktion
Mk2 dials can be identified in a number of ways, the key characteristic to lookout for is the skinny sub dials, visually much thinner than Mk1. Other tells include the addition of signage either side of SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock. A number of variations can be found such as T SWISS MADE T and - SWISS MADE - + more.
L SWISS MADE L dial, Watch Master
- SWISS MADE - dial, Chrono24
T - SWISS MADE - T dial, Christie’s
White dial with black roman always SWISS ONLY, Brandizzi
Blue dials have only been spotted in Mk2 format, if you have a Mk1 blue dial please get in touch.
Rare Variants
Platinum case, extremely rare and available by request only, below featuring a blue dial with rose gold details.
Other rare variants include light Mother of Pearl dials and and Obsidian dial.
Thick Logo Dial
So far this appears to be the final visual change, appearing late in production the EBEL logo at 12 o’clock appears significantly thicker than previous years.
Thick logo, New York Jewelers
Post 1995… Ebel Le Modular, the move in-house to be covered at a later date.
Huge Thanks
This reference guide was only possible via the contribution of a number of people. Huge thanks to Alfredoparamico, watchesbylogan, kusanagi_aoi, watchdilettante , c.olivee, rjbroer, hoangtherealtor + anyone I may have missed!
